Bill's Travel Blog

Eva Cassidy

2008-10-14T19:45:00.035-04:00

If you've never heard of her, or more importantly never heard her sing, you probably live in the USA. She's huge in Britain having had three #1 CD's there with fans from Iceland to Sweden, Germany and Australia. Seems kinda odd that here in the United States, this girl from Bowie, Maryland is still relatively unknown outside of the Washington, DC musical circle she grew up in. Yet such is the nature of our musical culture that some of the best talent is never widely heard. If you ever get a chance to attend one of the open mike shows in your hometown, or the concert of a local artist, you may be amazed at the talent you find. Some of my most enjoyable musical experiences have been in coffee houses and small clubs. Like Eva, these musicians are playing to just a handful of people, but some are as good as anything that's on the radio. Perhaps Eva gets some airtime in your area, but I've never once heard her over the air.

Regardless, her music can be found here. The CD Songbird is a good start. It contains her performances of "Fields of Gold" and "Somewhere Over the Rainbow". A book about her life is also available and her cousin Laura maintains the Eva Cassidy Web Site. I could fill this blog with adjectives in an attempt to describe everything I hear in her music, but if you're the type who really listens to music instead of quietly playing it for the ambiance, you'll better understand by just listening to her recordings. I'll only say that I've never heard a singer who could better capture the emotional essence of a song, and the listener's heart along with it.

On a recent trip to Maryland, I was able to trace some of Eva's brief journey through this world. I took all of the pictures that are usually taken on a trip to the nation's capital, but you've no doubt seen those before so there's no need to post them here. Here's the "Eva" pictures.

The Bowie house where she lived for several years. Her family no longer lives there.

Blues Alley - It was here that the "Live at Blues Alley" CD was recorded. An amateur video of her performing "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" during this show eventually ended up on British TV and sparked her rise to the top of the UK charts.

Eva eventually moved to West Street in Annapolis, though I don't know the specific address. It's a scenic town on the water, not far from Bowie.

One of the Annapolis locations where she performed was the Maryland Inn.

She also sometimes played for patrons of a small Annapolis restaurant called Pearl's. The restaurant is long gone, but according to the address, it was in this strip mall at 1914 Forest Drive. There is an unreleased recording of one of her performances here in 1994 with just her and her guitar. Hopefully, it will be available one day.

Eva was an outdoor type of person who worked for several years at a plant nursery and enjoyed hiking and biking through the countryside of southern Maryland. One of her favorite places was St. Mary's City and after spending the day there, I can certainly see why. Here's a few images from the St. Mary's area.

Original Maryland State House

Echo's From The 17th Century

The Trinity Church

In the "Songbird" book, there's a picture taken of Eva admiring an exotic tree. This is the tree and it's still healthy and strong, though the rightmost branch was removed close to the ground at some point. It's located just west of the Trinity Church in St. Mary's City.

Behind the tree are steps leading down to the water ...

where a sailboat waits ...

near Church Point.

When the Maryland Dove is in the harbor, you can board it for a tour.

A trail through the forest leads to Chancellor Point. These pictures were taken at the Point first looking southwest, then north and finally north east.

Nature Scenes in the St. Mary's Area

Mansfield Reformatory

2008-08-15T21:05:00.007-04:00

Here's another movie location that has appeared in four major movies to date. The one I'm most familiar with is The Shawshank Redemption. It's not a chick flick and it's definitely not for kids. But it's a well written and performed story that stars Morgan Freeman, Tim Robbins and, to a large degree, the setting.

The reformatory is well over 100 years old and has fallen into disrepair in recent years. Now in the hands of a preservation society, parts of it are open to the public for tours while renovation is in progress. It's located in Mansfield, Ohio and you can find tour and event information here. I took a small detour on a trip down south to check it out and was surprised to find that though the prison is no longer in service, there were still a bunch of "jailbirds" hanging around on the front lawn. ;)

Floating On A Breeze

2008-05-28T18:14:00.004-04:00

Forrest: Jenny, I don't know if Momma was right or if, if it's Lieutenant Dan. I don't know if we each have a destiny, or if we're all just floating around accidental-like on a breeze, but I, I think maybe it's both. Maybe both is happening at the same time. - From Forrest Gump 1994

Often when I tell folks of my passion for flying, some will come right out and inform me that I'm crazy. Others get a look in their eye that belies their tactfulness. A few embrace the adventure of seeing the world from a different perspective, wherever it leads. Fortunately, we don't know our destiny so all we can do is try to mold it into a likeness of our self image. The rest is purely "floating around accidental-like on a breeze". And whether life is long or relatively short, I find it preferable to live while alive than die by the inch.

Here are a few pictures I took recently while on a flying trip. These are all from the area around Jasper, Tennessee which is a bit more scenic than the flat land around Petersburg, Michigan.

Turbulent Sixties - The President

2008-03-03T19:49:00.018-05:00

In this final look at the Turbulent Sixties, I traveled to Dallas where on November 22, 1963, the 35th President of the United States was struck down while riding in a motorcade. The news was such a shock that practically anyone who was alive at the time can remember where they were when they heard about it. Many still regard the Warren Commission Report with skepticism and wonder if the full truth will ever be known. At any rate, the assassination was a watershed event and the shots that shattered John Kennedy's life still echo today. Our country has never been the same.

Dealey Plaza, which was conceived in honor of Dallas civic leaders, forms a western gateway to the city of Dallas. However, the former Texas School Book Depository building is far more famous than the Bryan Colonnade will ever be. This picture is a composite of three pictures I took of the plaza while standing on the railroad bridge above the triple underpass. The first building on the left is the former Texas School Book Depository Building. Near the center is the County Jail building.

After all these years, people still come to the plaza from all over the world and share their memories and impressions. The Bryan Colonnade appears at the center of this picture. Zapruder's perch can also be seen as well as the grassy knoll on the left.

The Texas School Book Depository building now houses the Sixth Floor Museum.

The window is partially open as it was on November 22, 1963.

This picture was taken while standing in the middle of the street at the location of the fatal shot.

View from Zapruder's perch.

The knoll as seen from Zapruder's position. The triple underpass, where James Tague was injured can be seen in the background.

View from the knoll.

And from the west end of the knoll, next to the triple underpass.

The railroad tower behind the knoll which was the observation point of Lee Bowers.

The house at 214 West Neely where the backyard photos were taken.

Oswald was renting a room in this house at 1026 North Beckley in November of '63. After the assassination, he took a cab to this general area, then backtracked on foot to his room where he is thought to have picked up his pistol and put on a jacket. After hurriedly leaving, his housekeeper saw him briefly standing across the street at a bus stop. The next time witnesses saw him, he was near 10th and Patton .

The record store where Officer Tippit hurriedly ran in to use the phone. It's just down the street from the Texas Theater. It was never known who he was calling. After waiting for several rings, there was no answer and he quickly left.

10th and Patton where Officer Tippit was murdered. (obviously not the 1963 houses)

The Texas Theater where Oswald was apprehended.

The doorway leading down the ramp to the basement of the then Dallas Police Department. It is generally believed that Jack Ruby casually walked down this ramp minutes before shooting Oswald.

The apartment on South Ewing Street where Jack Ruby lived in November '63 was apparently torn down years ago. The City Inn is now located there.

The County Jail on Houston and Main which overlooks Dealey Plaza. JFK rode past this building just before the motorcade turned left onto Elm street. This is the building Oswald was being moved to when he was shot by Jack Ruby. Subsequently, it became Ruby's place of incarceration until his death from cancer in January of 1967.

The Cenotaph which was built in memory of President Kennedy

Turbulent Sixties - The Sheriff

2008-02-02T15:17:00.001-05:00

When I was 15, a friend and I went to the local drive-in theater to see a movie that was based upon the real life experiences of a Tennessee sheriff not far from where we lived. This particular showing was "special" because the actual sheriff who inspired the movie was scheduled to make an appearance at the drive-in. His arrival about halfway through the movie was unmistakable, as there was an escort of police cars with sirens blaring and lights flashing. Believe it or not, they didn't stop the movie and I was so engrossed in it that I decided to stay in the car instead of meeting the sheriff! Tragically, he was soon gone and any opportunity to shake his hand vanished the following year when he lost his life in a car accident.

His story became legend and touched a chord within a lot of people. There have been several books written about him and three sequels to this movie have been made, the most recent in 2004 when The Rock starred in yet another version of Walking Tall. During the seven years Buford Pusser was sheriff of McNairy County, he rejected a reported kickback of $1000/month, choosing instead to confront the State Line Mob. During his tenure, he was shot eight times and stabbed seven. He killed two people in self defense and paid a terrible price for his efforts when his wife was killed in an ambush in August of 1967. The sheer violence of all this assaults the senses and seems surreal to the world I grew up in just a few miles away.

The locations of most of these events have been documented and can still be identified today. The 1973 movie however wasn't filmed in McNairy county, but rather in nearby Chester and Madison counties. I have been able to locate only a couple of the scene locations, both from the early part of the movie.

The Chester County Courthouse appeared in the movie when Buford, his wife and mom walked down the sidewalk in front of it.

And in front of the courthouse looking east, you can see the telephone pole that "crazy" Lutie McVey spun around after seeing Buford leaving the courthouse.

The Pine Ridge Club is an actual night club located in Medon, Tennessee and although it had nothing to do with the real life story, it appeared in the movie as a hangout for the "state line mob" and provided the setting for the shootout between Buford and Callie Hacker.

The original Shamrock Motel was the actual place where the real life shooting between Buford and Louise Hathcock occurred. All that's left now is the foundation and some parking lot concrete.

Buford's residence in Adamsville. It now houses a museum.

This is where the mobsters hid on the morning they ambushed Buford and his wife.

The first ambush location.

And the second.

On the day in 1974 when Buford announced at a press conference in Memphis that he himself would be starring in a sequel to Walking Tall, he was killed when his car hit an embankment on Hwy 64 near Lawton Road. There is a plaque at the location as well as a stone memorial.

Buford and his wife rest beside his parents in the Adamsville Cemetary. The site is easily found as the headstone is taller than anything else around.

Turbulent Sixties - The Minister

2008-01-21T00:09:00.004-05:00

This is the first of three blog entries regarding the 1960's in America. It was a dramatic decade in our history and one of great promise, change and tragedy.

Today is a national holiday in honor of a Georgia minister who devoted his life to civil rights, Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. In view of the volumes of literature which have been inspired by his life, there's little I could say that hasn't already been written. To me, one of the notable achievements of his life was his determination to fight violence with nonviolence. It has been said that this world is ruled by the aggressive use of force. The untold millions of people who have suffered under the likes of Communism, Nazism, and Islamic Extremism bear witness to this. But not all force is violent. Even Napoleon admitted, "There are only two forces in the world; the sword and the spirit. In the long run the sword will always be conquered by the spirit." Dr. King not only understood this, he lived it.

As I travel around the country, it's common to see Main Street, Broadway, and Central Avenue. It's also common to see Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd. According to Wikipedia, by 2006 there were more than 730 American cities with a street named after Dr. King. No doubt there are many more by now.

The Ebenezer Church

The National Historic Site in Atlanta

The Civil Rights Museum in Memphis

Final Resting Place in Atlanta

Flying With Mike

2007-09-12T21:21:00.000-04:00

I vividly recall lying in the front yard when I was about three. It was warm, sunny and a strong wind was blowing some clouds overhead to the east. I'm not sure if I even knew what flying was at that age. I just remember thinking how much fun it would be to run and jump up and down on those big cotton balls.

Most of 40 years have passed since that day. I've flown in the big jets, the little Cessnas, gliders and ultralights, but it wasn't until I flew a trike that the little boy's dream came alive.

Trikes have been popular around the world for several years but only recently started to catch on in the United States. Earlier this year, I had the good fortune of meeting Mike Theeke who is the owner of FlyHardTrikes and the designer of the Skycycle. I drove over to his hangar at the Marion County Airport in Jasper, Tennessee and immediately realized that I'd found what I'd been looking for.

Mike with a newly completed Skycycle

It's a one seat ultralight trike that is custom made to your order. You can select from different engines and wings. You can choose between a lightweight soaring trike, or a heavy duty flying trike. Either way, the trike will be Part 103 compliant, meaning you don't have to have a pilot's license to fly it and you don't have to register it with the FAA. But one of the best things is that it's about the most affordable way to get into the air with a comfortable margin of safety that exists today.

Though a pilot's license isn't required, it would be foolish to strap oneself in a trike and try to go flying without adequate training. More than a few hapless general aviation pilots have found out the hard way that trikes fly completely different from regular airplanes. Fortunately, Mike not only builds the Skycycle, he does a superb job as a CFI training trike pilots. He's a long time hang glider and triker who has the knowledge, experience, patience and work ethic to turn even me into a competent trike pilot. :)

A Trike Bivouac

2007-08-05T15:52:00.000-04:00

A couple of weeks ago, I road over to Cushing Field for a preOshkosh trike fly-in. They couldn't have picked a better weekend. The weather was perfect! I haven't seen any official numbers, but I'd say about 25 trike pilots attended. I'd hoped to see some single seat ultralight trikes, but practically all were two seat experimentals. An Airborne dealership is located on the field and they looked like very good flying machines. There were a couple of ultralight airplanes on the field, but no ultralight trikes. Still it was a very enjoyable time.

Hmm... Wonder if one of those trike wings would fit THIS Wing?

This cub was in mint condition but looked kinda lonesome all by itself.

There were a couple of Thorps on the flight line and this one saw a fair amount of action.

But the day belonged to trikes.

Even the sunset was picture perfect!

Cushing is one of those aviation treasures that you just have to experience for yourself. It reminds one of a time when life moved at a slower pace. And sitting around the airport watching the planes come and go was a lot more fun than sitting in the living room playing the latest video game. I was talking to the owner of a small grass strip airport recently and he marveled at how rarely kids visit, much less hang around the airport today, even though there are many who live next door. Maybe today's video games ARE more fun? I'm sure they're more affordable. The Sport Pilot initiative is supposed to lower the cost of flying and thereby help more people get into the air, but who can spring for a $109,500 Cessna LSA?

The most affordable alternative I've found is trikes. They're simple, easy to fly, easy to land, MUCH easier to afford, loads of fun, and have outstanding visibility. You can take them around the patch or go cross country with them. Flying low and slow in a trike provides a point of view that you just won't find in a Cessna. And if you stay within the Part 103 regulations, you'll need training for sure, but you won't have to jump through the hoops involved in getting a license and getting the aircraft registered.

Maybe flying is getting more affordable after all. And maybe it's time to go Wingin', REALLY WINGIN'!

The Little White House

2007-07-26T20:13:00.000-04:00

As I mentioned in an earlier post, there's a little town in Georgia called Warm Springs. It was here that Franklin Roosevelt, himself a victim of polio, founded a treatment center for polio patients. While governor of New York, he had a house built there and after he became President, it became known as The Little White House.

To me, the house seemed surprisingly small and rustic for a man of such wealth, but apparently the simplicity of it compared to the extravagance he was accustomed to allowed him to "get away from it all." It was in the living room of this house that the President was sitting for a portrait when he collapsed in April of 1945.

Of course, there are guard posts at the entry gate and also in the woods surrounding the house.

In front of the house are small buildings for guests and aides.

The garage with one of the President's cars on display.

This is a view of the living room taken from his bedroom.

The bedroom has just enough room for a small bed, chest of drawers and a desk.

There is however a sizable porch on the back of the house.

A museum has been built at the site and contains a variety of artifacts and information about his life and times. The unfinished portrait is on display there. It's an interesting and uplifting tour about a paralyzed man who dared to be President and who inspired a nation during the ravages of a Great Depression and a Great War.

Iron Butt

2007-06-19T22:01:00.001-04:00

Well, I have mulled over the idea of attempting an Iron Butt ride for awhile now. The biggest drawback was riding a thousand miles without having time to stop and see places of interest. Opportunity presented itself a couple of Wednesday's ago when I read in the newspaper that the Space Shuttle was scheduled to launch on the following Friday. Having traveled up and down I-75 for years, I've already seen most of the sites along that superslab by now, so it would be a good route for riding straight through. And having always wanted to see the Shuttle blast off in person, I decided the time had come to try the Saddlesore 1000!

I left Brownstown, Michigan Thursday after work and by early Friday afternoon was at the House of Power Motorcycle Dealership in Palm Bay, Florida. Thanks to James Lauer who is a firefighter in Brownstown and to Dave Regisorn, a manager at House of Power for being my official witnesses for the ride!

Since the goal was to ride 1000 miles within 24 hours, I didn't pause to take any pictures, Actually, the trip was so uneventful, there's little of interest to write about.

However, once there, I DID get some pictures of the Atlantis launch!

Buggytop And A Natural Bridge

2007-06-03T18:18:00.001-04:00

A day off ... a sunny sky ... a warm breeze ... a wide open road ... Sounds like time to go Wingin'!

There wasn't a destination. Didn't need to be. But you never know what you'll find around the next turn in the road. Somewhere near Sewanee, a sign pointed the way to a place called the Lost Cove. Sounded good to me. Ended up parking the Wing and took a hike in search of it. The main attraction however turned out to be a cave with an opening 80 feet high and 100 feet wide, called Buggytop. If you're up for some intermediate hiking (leave the kids with Granny), this is one hike that's worth every step. The trail is full of roots n' rocks and it's steep in places, but it's well marked and you don't have to worry about finding your way back.

Somewhere down there is the Lost Cove.

It's a couple of miles to the mouth of the cave and if you've worked up a sweat during the hike, the cool stream of air coming out of the mouth of the cave is one of the rewards of your efforts. Not to mention the scenery.

Before the day was done, I also stopped at a Natural Bridge not far from the cave. No hiking required for this one. Just a hop and a skip off the road.

You've heard the saying that the best things in life are free? Well, here's a couple of natural wonders just waitin' for your visit, and they're both free! Located off of Hwy 56, south of Sewanee, Tennessee. The parking lot GPS coordinates for the Buggytop Trail are N 35°06.916', W 85°55.492' and the parking lot for the Natural Bridge is located at N 35°09.226', W 85°55.316'.

Not Your Everyday Restaurants

2007-05-23T20:24:00.000-04:00

It's surprising when you're traveling how you see mostly the same eating places a thousand miles from home that you have in your hometown. So when you find a local restaurant that is not a chain with really good food, it's worth a mention.

Hagy's Restaurant

Located off of Hwy 22 on the Tennessee Riverfront next to Shiloh National Park in west Tennessee. Also known as the Catfish Hotel, it's one of the best. This restaurant is so popular, you'll likely have to wait. But it's worth it!

Farmer's Market Cafe

Located at 315 N. McDonough Street in Montgomery, Alabama. Yeah, maybe the outside's not much to look at but it's what's inside that counts - right? You can order off a menu or walk take a stroll down the serving line cafeteria style. Either way, the food will warm your stomach and the waitresses will warm your heart ... darlin'

Slice of Life Pizzeria and Pub

Located in downtown Warm Springs, Georgia. Perhaps this little town would have escaped wide attention were it not for FDR, it's most celebrated part-time resident. That's why I went there, but that's another story. It was a sleepy Monday night when I left the hotel room for a stroll. The sidewalks were rolled up except for the lone mini-mart on the corner - and a little eating place with a sign out front that reads, "Never trust a skinny cook". I didn't see the cook, but judging from the food, I'd say the fellow (or gal) is rather corpulent! The atmosphere was comfortable as well and before the evening was over, the owner stopped by the table and chatted like he'd known me for years.

Old Country Store and Restaurant

Located in the Casey Jones Village, just off of I-40 in Jackson, Tennessee. As you can see from the picture, which was taken mid afternoon, they're not at a loss for customers! If you're "fixin" to be in the area, you'll just HAVE to stop in too! But allow yourself plenty of time to meander around, assuming you can still meander after treating yourself to the buffet. This place is rather special to me because I use to be a cook there myself, when I was going to college. The years have been kind to it and there's a whole village of stores there now. They even have their own motel, right next to the caboose!

Sun 'n Fun 2007

2007-04-26T19:17:00.000-04:00

Well, I know it's been awhile since this blog has been updated. Partly because I basically hibernated through the winter, and partly because a computer glitch resulted in the loss of hours of work. Anyway, I'll be attempting to restore some of what was lost over the coming weeks. 6-24-07

In April, I traveled to Lakeland, Florida to see the Sun N Fun airshow, but not before spending a few days at Daytona Beach. It was a great way to shake off the Michigan winter. Actually, the overriding memory I have of the whole trip is the rhythmic sound of the waves on the beach. I ended up staying at a Days Inn on the ocean. Must've missed the spring break rush because the town wasn't that crowded and it provided the perfect setting to unwind for a few days.

A few pictures of paradise in April.

Though I've never been a big race fan, I took a tour of the Daytona Speedway and really enjoyed it. It was amazing to see how BIG the place was. If you're a NASCAR fan, you'll definitely want to put it on your list.

From the Atlantic Ocean, it's only a couple of hours to Lakeland. As always, it was a treat to see the military airplanes, commercial jets, and all of the general aviation displays. My primary interest though has long been the experimental aircraft. These are usually sold in kit form and generally allow the builder an opportunity to get into the air safely without breaking the bank. (relatively speaking) There didn't seem to be a whole lot in the experimental area that I hadn't seen before. One new design caught my eye, until I found out how much money it would take to build it. As a result, I wandered over to the ultralight field. I've flown enough in a Cessna 150 now to know that "low and slow" is where the real fun is and I could tell that the ultralight pilots were having a really good time.

This Kolb Firestar was a favorite and flew continually during the ultralight show.

This plane is optimized for aerial photography. You can see the virtually unobstructed view of the pilot and the bottom of the fuselage provides plenty of space to mount as fancy a camera as you can afford.

This may look like a real P-51, but it's actually a 3/4 scale kit that flies on only 65 horsepower.

One of the Quicksilver models.

This is a little one seater that's powered by half of a VW engine.

An ultralight with a removable cockpit enclosure.

Trikes have matured in the last few years and are becoming very popular in the U.S. now. My initial thoughts on them were somewhat apprehensive. But the more I learn about their design and safety record, the more I like them.

For a true Part 103 experience, Fly Hard Trikes offers a single seat model that won Best Type Trike Ultralight this year.

Powered Parachutes remain a popular (and colorful) way to get into the air.

And for the REALLY adventurous, one can strap a Paramotor on their back and take to the sky! Whatever!!

Puppets and Frank Lloyd Wright

2006-11-26T08:17:00.000-05:00

On my return from the "Out West" trip last summer, one of the little gems that I passed through was Mason City, Iowa. It is perhaps best known as the hometown of Meredith Wilson who composed "The Music Man". There is a footbridge named in his honor as well as a whole square dedicated to the motion picture.

The NacNiderArt Museum has, among other things, much of the puppet collection of Bill Baird. If the name doesn't sound familiar to you, maybe a look at these happy critters will jog your memory! The pictures aren't the best as I had to snap them through the display glass, but at least they're recognizable. :)

And then a little farther on down the street is Frank Lloyd Wright's Stockman House, which is impressive even by modern day standards, not to mention it was built in 1908! Pictures aren't allowed inside, so you'll have to take the tour yourself sometime. You won't be disappointed!

Day Trip To Werfen

2006-11-25T11:15:00.001-05:00

Well, this update will wrap up the trip to Europe. As always, if you click on the picture, a larger version will be displayed. In this case, the linked pictures are much larger than usual as these are some of my favorite pictures from the trip.

My trip to Werfen was without question the most enjoyable day of the whole vacation. The little town is located a few kilometers south of Salzburg and other than the magnificent mountains, it's main claims to fame are the Eisriesenwelt ice caves and the Hohenwerfen fortress. I decided to forgo the ice caves. I've heard that the tour is popular and recommended, but I get plenty of ice during the Detroit winters.

On the way, I drove through a small town and took a couple of pictures. Don't remember the name of the place, but it definitely has scenic appeal!

Upon arriving at Werfen, I was disappointed to find the whole area covered with fog. But an occasional glimpse of the sun promised better things ahead.

While waiting for the fog to lift, I managed to find a couple of scene locations from the Richard Burton, Clint Eastwood movie "Where Eagles Dare". If you've seen the movie, perhaps you'll recognize the long bridge.

And the train station.

This is the corner of the station they walked around.

Once the fog lifted, the weather and scenery were simply gorgeous as I headed toward the castle.

A dining area in the courtyard.

The sentry's quarters.

On the way down to the Landesfalknerhof.

I knew that there was going to be a falconry show at midday, but assumed that in the meantime the birds were kept in cages. But they were sitting in shelters throughout the grounds. Their legs were tethered to keep them from flying off, although they all came back when they were supposed to during the show.

Mr. Owl didn't seem too happy about being awake in the middle of the day!

Soon the show started and everyone was scrambling to get pictures of these magnificent creatures as they flew by. Every now and then, we would get a lucky shot.

There is more than meets the eye in this picture. You'll need to click on the picture to bring up the larger version. If you look toward the top of the frame, almost directly above the eagle's head, there is a white building on the cliff! Do you see it?

How about now?

There it is! Not exactly a place for sleepwalkers! This is actually the top of the cable car lift that was built in 1955 to help shorten the hike to the ice caves!

Anyway, while we were searching the cliffs, the eagle landed. Guess he's seen it all before.

Back inside the castle, it was lunchtime!

And then a tour of the chapel. Doesn't it seem rather odd to have a severed arm extending from the pulpit? Hmm....

Someone's living quarters (once upon a time)

And perhaps, someone else's living quarters!

Some medieval weapons.

And what self respecting castle wouldn't have a few torture devices hanging around!

And a fire water pump.

Once the castle tour was over ...

It was time to explore the countryside. Doesn't get any better than this! :)

Hohensalzburg Fortress

2006-11-25T10:03:00.000-05:00

While in Austria, I had the chance to visit two fortresses. This one has overlooked the city of Salzburg since the year 1077 and has never been conquered. It was built to protect the archbishop at the time and has since been the residence of other medieval princes, as well as providing military barracks and even a prison. You can reach it either by foot or funicular.

Pretty snazzy living quarters!

Of course, no fortress would be complete without it's instruments of torture!

The Eagle's Nest

2006-11-23T10:05:00.000-05:00

When the RAF bombed the Obersalzburg, the Eagle's Nest was on the list. They missed it and today it is a huge tourist attraction. Though it has come to be known as the Eagle's Nest, it's official name is Kelsteinhaus. You can either hike up there or take a bus from the Obersalzburg parking lot. Once you get off the bus, you'll walk through a long tunnel and then enter a rotunda to the right before being lifted up into the house by the huge elevator. The main hall is a restaurant now and you can eat either there or outside on the patio. The views are extraordinary and pictures simply can't come close to conveying the experience of being there. But since we don't yet have any of those Captain Kirk thingamajigs, guess pictures will have to do for now.

There is a picture on Geoff Walden's excellent site that shows Hitler sitting uneasily on this terrace. Although Eva Braun apparently spent a lot of time here, Hitler only went to the house on a few occasions.

Lake Konigsee can be seen in this picture.

The Untersburg mountain with Salzburg in the distance.

The Intercontinental Hotel and the remains of Hitler's Obersalzburg complex.

Near left center is the Ahornbuchsenkopf which appeared in the final scene of "The Sound of Music". The mountians in the distance are in Austria.

Another scene of the Obersalzburg in the foreground, with the hill above Oberau near the center where my hotel was.

At the peak of every mountain I climbed, there were memorials, usually crosses. This one is on the hill behind the Kelsteinhaus.

Boat Ride Across Lake Konigsee

2006-11-19T21:05:00.000-05:00

Located just outside of Bertchesgaden, Lake Konigsee is a must see if you're in southern Bavaria. Once you park your car, you walk past a variety of shops and restaurants on your way to the lake. It's nestled against the Waltzmann mountain which has the highest peak of the Germany Alps. And yes, the water is a gorgeous emerald green. It is claimed to be the cleanest lake in Germany and it's kept that way in part by limiting the boat traffic to electric boats only. There is a famous chapel on the lake which can only be reached by boat. So, at the lakes edge, I bought a ticket and boarded one of the last boats to leave for the day. Somewhere along the way, the captain stopped the boat and a man with a trumpet began to play. And soon, the granite walls of the mountain echoed back. The boat ride goes first to St. Bartholomew's chapel and then on to Salat. Since I arrived so late, there wasn't time to journey on the Salat. But once I saw the chapel, I forgot all about Salat.

A Long Cable Ride

2006-11-18T15:27:00.001-05:00

One of the more famous mountains in the Alps is the Untersberg. It is situated in the southeastern corner of Bavaria and overlooks the city of Salzburg. If you're up to it, you can hike the trails and eventually find your way to the top. Otherwise, there is a cable lift that will carry you on an eight and a half minute ride to the Geierick Peak, where you can have lunch with a breathtaking view overlooking Salzburg. There is plenty to do on the Untersberg, depending on the time of year and how adventursome you are.

This mountain has a long history of myths, the most famous of which Adolf Hitler took note as he gazed upon the mountain from his Bergoff. It says that Charlamagne sleeps in an ice cave deep in the Untersberg, waiting for the time to come when he will rise to fight his final battle. I tried to be quiet so as not to awaken him. ;)

The Sound of Music

2006-10-22T17:07:00.004-04:00

When I was around seven years old, Mom wanted me to see a new movie at the local theater. I really didn't want to go, since if a grownup liked it, I figured I wouldn't. But she insisted, so off we went. It was a magical experience! I instantly fell in love with the Alps, the music of Rogers and Hammerstein and the beautiful place called Austria.

Over the years, Europe seemed so far away that it was hard to imagine actually traveling there. But imagination eventually matured, inspired action and the time came when the streets of Salzburg were right before my very eyes.

Although the movie was filmed in 1964, most of the scene locations are still easily recognizable. Here's what some of them look like as of September '06. I've uploaded the linked pictures in a larger size than usual due to the interest. Enjoy!

Lake Wolfgangsee appeared in an aerial view at the beginning.

Maria's Hill is located at Mehlweg in Germany - This view from the opening scene looks south. One of the distant peaks just right of center is the location of the final scene of the movie where the family climbed their way to freedom.

The Untersberg as seen from Maria's Hill

Road to Nonnberg

Entrance to Nonnberg

Nonnberg Courtyard

Nonnberg Exit

The horse in the Residenz Fountain that Maria splashed water on - The Kapitelplatz and Residenzplatz were both in the middle of a huge street fair when I was there so there wasn't much to photograph from the movie viewpoint.

Frohnburg Entrance

Frohnburg - The front and rear exteriors of this mansion provided the facades for the movie villa.

Frohnburg (where they pushed the car)

Leopoldskron - never appeared in the movie, although you can see some of the garden behind it when Rolf is throwing pebbles at the window and when Maria returns from the Abbey. The actual movie setting on the lake was next door at Bertelsmann.

Leopoldskron with the Bertelsmann scene location at the lower left

Closeup of the Bertelsmann location - The terrace is still there, as is the square shaped shrubbery. The gate is gone and the trees have of course changed after 40+ years. The statues beside the gates are no longer there but one of the pedastals for them still stands on the right.

The Bertelsmann location looking back toward the lake - The Untersberg was hiding behind some distant haze when this picture was taken.

The Bertelsmann location looking across the grounds to the corner where the Gazebo used to be

The Gazebo is now located nearby at Hellbrun Estate. So many folks were climbing the fence at Bertelsmann and dancing in the Gazebo that the decision was made to move it to a more secure location.

The Horse Pond from the "My Favorite Things" montage

Mozart Footbridge

The Werfen Picnic Field with Hohenwerfen Castle in the Background

The Werfen Picnic field - Another View

Pegasus still flies at Mirabell.

The Fountain at Mirabell

Mirabell Statues

The Arbor

The Dwarf still hasn't moved a muscle, although the tree that was behind him is no longer there to protect him from the elements. ;)

Do-Re-Mi Steps

The Mondsee Cathedral

The Bell Towers

Steps to the Altar

Looking Down the Aisle

Looking Up

Building across from the Festival Hall where Rolf called Liesel over to give her a telegraph - It's named The Toscaninihof, apparently after an Italian conductor who worked in Salzburg in the 1930's

Side Entrance of the Festival Hall (also known as The Felsenreitschule) where Max and the children emerged after practicing

Interior of the Festival Hall - As you can see, it was in the process of renovation. The seats toward the front of the hall are attached to the metal platform on the left and were hoisted up out of the way.

The Ahornbuchsenkopf - This is the "Climb Every Mountain" mountain. I always wondered about the building on the ridge in the background. It's named Purtschellerhaus and is a protection hut for alpine hikers. It is open from the middle of May to the end of October and if you hike up there, you can have something to eat and a roof over your head for the night. The hut's location is also notable in that the Austrian-German border runs right through the center of the kitchen.

Another View from the Ahornbuchsenkopf. The hikers hut appears at the upper middle left. The ridge the movie Von Trapps walked across at the close of the movie is in the center. And at the top of the distant ridge to the right is Hitler's Kelstein House (sometimes called the Eagle's Nest) which can be seen for a moment in the closing scene.

From the Ahornbuchsenkopf, looking to the North, and the final scene of the movie. In the distance, the Untersberg towers over Salzburg. To the right, Maria's Hill can be seen at Melweg.

The Ahornbuchsenkopf became my favorite scene location. From a purely geographical perspective, the view from any direction is breathtaking. But considering this mountain from a historical standpoint, and especially from the context of the movie, the symbolism is especially thrilling. As you know, this is the mountain over which the movie Von Trapps made their escape from the Nazis. During the war, Hitler's second seat of power was located on the Obersalzburg mountain below. The Nazis had installed antiaircraft guns on the surrounding mountain peaks which were fired at the British airplanes that bombed Hitler's Obersalzburg complex in 1945.
To me, this makes "The Sound of Music" even more triumphant. Just a few years before it was filmed, Hitler ruled the area with his reign of terror . And to see Maria running joyfully across Melweg in the beginning of the movie and the family escaping to freedom at the end, both within view of Hitler's Eagle's Nest, makes the the whole story all the more meaningful.

Ed. Note - Though I was interested in the interior scenes as well; with the exception of the Mondsee Cathedral and the Festival Hall, there really isn't much to photograph. Almost all of the interiors were shot in studios and I have been unable to located any of the sets. I heard that the ballroom set was eventually donated to the Hollywood Museum, but the museum never got off the ground and I don't know what happened to it. I did come across the "Lonely Goatherd" puppets in a museum in Iowa this past summer. Look for some pictures of them in a future update. :)

Images of Salzburg

2006-10-11T21:03:00.000-04:00

Oberau And The Obersalzburg

2006-10-10T16:10:00.001-04:00

Having decided early this year that this would be the year of mountains for me, I journeyed to the continental divide in both the eastern and western United States. The Blue Ridge mountains are beautiful for sure, and the Rockies awe inspiring. But neither are as dramatic as the Alps in southern Bavaria. And once they stood before me in majestic splendor, I knew that I had saved the best for last.

My hotel was the Alpenhotel Denninglehen, a mountain chalet above the village of Oberau with an indoor pool, a sauna room, massage service and a scenic restaurant where breakfast and dinner were served daily. After travelling most of 5000 miles, the remote solitude of this setting provided a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle that brought me there. From the balcony of my room, I could see a building not far away that was situated on the edge of a cliff. It appeared to be at the top of the world. Almost immediately, I recognized it as being the Kehlsteinhaus. The dome of a cathedral graced the valley below me. A deer grazed in the morning mist while an owl preened in a nearby tree. To the east, the Austrian border was only minutes away. Looking north, the Untersburg mountain towered above Salzburg. In the westerly direction, there was a mountain called the Obersalzburg.

One of the more recent historical events that took place in this area was when the Nazis took over the Obersalzburg and made it Hitler's second seat of power. This mountain was within walking distance, so I hiked over and took some pictures.

On the way up the mountain was a speed limit sign that included a speed limit for tanks.

One of the many bridges constructed in the area during the 30's and 40's.

This is the foundation of a cottage in the woods that came to be known as Kampfhausl. When Hitler was released from prison, he retreated here and finished the second part of Mein Kampf .

In what was the corner of the Kampfhausl, someone had placed a candle, apparently as a shrine to Hitler. It was a rare site as the Bavarian government, for obvious reasons, actively discourages any show of support for Nazism.

Likewise, the foundation is all that's left of the elaborate SS guardhouse at the entrance to Hitler's compound.

The upper driveway that led to the side of Hitler's Berghof.

The Berghof was heavily damaged by British bombers in 1945 at the close of the war. Later, the ruins were buried and trees have been planted to try and reforest the site of Hitler's house. The ground level as seen in this photo is several feet higher than it was during the war. All that remains are parts of the foundation and a bunker system that has been sealed off.

A long, thin tree bows across the site where Hitler's house stood, as if the weight of the world is on it's shoulders.

Within view of the Berghof site is the Zum Turken Hotel. It was taken over by the Nazis and used to house Hitler's bodyguards. It too was heavily damaged at the end of the war, but the daughter of the former owner eventually regained ownership and rebuilt it. The hotel is still open to the public.

In this view of the Turken, you can see the small guard post that was built in front by the Nazis.

When the tide of war began to turn against the Axis powers, elaborate bunkers were constructed under the Obersalzburg. The most interesting one to me was accessible through the Turken. The bunker is entered by a long series of circular stairs with rooms extending off to the side. Further down, there are corridors leading to various places. At the end of a long stairway, you are greeted by a machine gun stand.

One of the places this corridor led to was separate underground rooms built for Hitler, Eva Braun and Hitler's doctor. These rooms have been sealed off to the public.

Up the hill from the Turken was the area where the SS barracks and the kindergarten buildings were located. The foundations of these ruins were removed just a few years ago.

One of the few remaining buildings. It was a large terrace hall that was originally part of the Platterhof hotel. Under the American occupation, the building was called the "Skyline Room". The hall now houses a restaurant where patrons can either dine inside or out on the terrace.

The Intercontinental Hotel was recently built on the site where Herman Goering lived. It is a luxury hotel that was far too expensive for my budget. There was some controversy regarding the building of this hotel between those who seek to preserve the unfortunate history of this site and others who would prefer that the Obersalzburg not be forever stigmatized by the Nazis.

This is the former location of Hitler's Teehaus. The fresh pile of dirt in the forground is where the Teehaus once stood. It was partly destroyed back in the 50's and the ruins were buried just two weeks before I took this picture.

The famous overlook at the Teehaus. The eastern edge of the Untersberg can be seen on the left and the city of Salzburg lies beyond it in the distance.

This building was rebuilt and now houses a Dokumentation Center about the Third Reich. The tour includes a walk through a different bunker from the one under the Turken Hotel.

More than once, I got an eerie feeling while tracing the path of Hitler. Even after hearing the words and seeing the pictures, it's hard to imagine such barbarism. The free world of today owes so much to those who stood up and fought the forces of tyranny in WWII. I hope that we in our generation will also have the courage to preserve the freedom we have inherited.

Arbeit Macht Frei

2006-10-09T08:54:00.000-04:00

The words on the gate promise that work makes you free. But for over 30,000 registered prisoners who walked through, and an untold number who were executed upon arrival without being registered, the only "freedom" they would ever see would be death.

I hadn't planned on visiting Dachau, thinking that such an experience would likely be too disturbing and just wouldn't fit into a relaxing vacation in the Alps. I was right. But as my vacation in southern Bavaria unfolded, I became aware of just how much the ghost of Hitler still haunts that land. And while some would prefer that all of the evidence be destroyed, there are many historical sites relating to the Nazis that have been wisely preserved. I was amazed at the crowds of people who came to see the concentration camp. Especially the young people. It seemed as though every high school in Munich had chosen that day for a field trip. Apparently, they have no intention of allowing the Holocaust to be forgotten.

Dachu was established in 1933 and was the first of hundreds of concentration camps. Initially, political opponents, Catholics, and Jewish leaders were imprisoned. But the murderous Nazi tyranny consumed Gentile as well as Jew. The list included Protestant religious leaders, doctors, lawyers, bankers, intellectuals, Jehovah's Witnesses, Gypsies, and those who were deemed mentally ill. Even Germans who dared oppose the Nazis risked the same fate. It was not classified as an extermination camp in the mold of Auschwitz or Treblinka, and the general consensus today is that the gas chamber at Dachau was never used for mass murder. But such a point is to me pointless. Untold thousands lost their freedom, their families, their livelihood, their possessions, their identity, their dignity, their health, and their very lives there. Many were murdered for the slightest infraction by hanging, or by being shot in the neck or the back of the head at the execution wall. Some were punished by starvation, only to be later given poisoned food which they ravenously consumed. Others were murdered through various types of torture, exhaustion, medical experimentation, exposure to the elements and malnutrition. And for many more, the shocking living conditions in the camp resulted in death from typhus or other diseases.

Eventually, the number of dead was so great that the Nazis sought a more efficient method of disposal. After all, mass graves left too much evidence behind of the atrocities that were taking place. So in 1940, a crematorium was built. But as the death rate spiraled, it soon became clear that it didn't provide enough capacity. Consequently, a new crematorium was built with the capability of burning 30 or more corpses at a time, depending on how emaciated they were. But as the war neared it's conclusion, the Nazis could no longer obtain the coal needed to fire the ovens. When American soldiers liberated the camp, they found train cars crammed full of hundreds of dead bodies and over 3000 corpses strewn around the crematorium. They also found piles of ashes on the ground near the crematorium.

Are you sick at your stomach yet? Yeah, I thought so. But you've likely heard the phrase attributed to American author George Santayana, "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it."

No matter how horrifying, we can never allow such barbarism to prevail. Neither can we allow the light to fade on such suffering, as though it doesn't matter. We must remember ....

12 Hours in Amsterdam

2006-10-07T09:49:00.002-04:00

... is enough to sample the flavor of the legendary city, but a small sample it will be. There are canals, carriage rides, cathedrals, beautiful architecture, tons of museums, outdoor cafes, day markets, great food from many different cultures, street performers, bicycles, and water taxis -- just to name a few of the attractions.

The highlight for me was touring the Anne Frank House. I've always considered her an exceptional writer, with an insight far beyond the few years she graced this earth. Now that I've visited the places she wrote about, I'm even more impressed. It was as though I'd already been there. The line waiting to get in on a weekday was down the street, around the corner and halfway up the other street. It's clear that people still remember. May they always.

Anyway, instead of writing a few thousand words, here's some street shots of my daytrip ... until next time!

Bridges

2006-10-01T12:44:00.000-04:00

I've crossed a few bridges in my day. Haven't we all? Some are dramatic and unforgettable. Other pass underneath without notice. But they're all significant in our lives, both literally and figuratively.

People who are estranged from each other sometimes talk of trying to "build a bridge" between themselves. Others, filled with anger, are determined to "burn every bridge" they cross. Some bridges we look forward to crossing and some we approach with dread as in, "I'll cross that bridge when I come to it." Some bridges inspire us and provide a reminder of just how far we can go if we're willing to rise above the fear of what lurks below.

Some sway in the wind and some are seemingly invincible. Some are pug ugly, and some stylish. The curves of a few could even be considered sensual and have even inspired romance. Did you ever stop at a covered bridge and take a look? There are always personal notes either written or carved into the wood. Notes of affection, of invitation, of inspiration, of memorium, of poetry.

Above all, I hope that bridges are always there when we need them, whether we want to cross them or not .... Here's a few of the literal bridges I've had the priviledge to photograph. Perhaps I'll add to this blog later, as time takes me to others. My figurative bridges? Well, they're not so easily photographed, and wouldn't be especially interesting to anyone but me. But the figurative ones are an essential part of progress in each of our lives and are worthy of personal reflection occasionally.

What bridges have YOU crossed?

Mackinac Bridge at the Straits of Mackinac in Michigan

Stone Bridge in Winterset, Iowa

Fallasburg Bridge near Lowell, Michigan

Holliwell Bridge in Madison County, Iowa

Whites Bridge in Montcalm County, Michigan

The Music Man Bridge in Mason City, Iowa

Railroad Bridge near Cherokee, North Carolina

Mozart Bridge in Salzburg, Austria

Chain of Rocks Bridge in St. Louis, Missouri

Bridge near Munich, Germany with Unusual Support

San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge in California

Three Men

2006-08-14T14:29:00.000-04:00

During the planning stage of a recent trip out west, I decided to first drive to Chicago, pick up the start of Route 66 and follow it down to St. Louis before heading out to Colorado. I found that there's really not much left. (at least that I was interested in) But that's a whole 'nother story.

The one exception was Springfield, Illinois. It is famous of course for it's association with the 16th President of the United States. And fortunately, for those with an interest in history, much has been preserved there.

The only house he ever owned is in great condition and is open for tours.

The Old State Capitol Building located across the street from the law office.

Lincoln practiced law in this building from 1844 to about 1852.

The Receiving Vault at Oak Ridge Cemetary was the initial place of burial. In December of 1865, his remains were moved to a temporary vault up the hill.

A custodian's residence was built nearby.

In 1871, the President's remains were moved to the not yet finished permanent tomb.

Everyone rubs his nose for good luck.

After an 1876 attempt to steal his body and hold it for ransom, the remains were hid for a time and then moved to the final resting place in a cement vault below the burial room.

A rear view of the tomb.

Traveling west from St. Louis, road signs soon called my attention to the hometown of our 33rd President.

The "Summer White House" is also open for tours. It had been built by his in-laws. Harry married up, and never forgot it. Even while President, he didn't sit at the head of the table in this house. That spot was reserved for his mother-in-law. But he wasn't that impressed with fancy things anyway. He much preferred the small, plain kitchen to the elaborate dining room. And though the house sometimes would get unbearably hot, he wasn't the slightest bit interested in having it air conditioned. The tour guide referred to him as a 19th century man in a 20th century time.

Much of the travel of his day was by train and the depot at Independance became famous as a result of his comings and goings.

His Presidential Library is nearby and contains his and Bess's final resting place.

Further west, I was surprised to see signs pointing the way to the Presidential Library of our 34th President in Abilene, Kansas.

The grounds are spacious and contain the library

a museum

his boyhood home

a statue

and the chapel where he, Mamie and their firstborn son were laid to rest.

In remembering the lives of these three men, one of the more obvious common threads is that they were all men of war. Lincoln during the Civil War, Truman during the last days of WWII and the Korean War, and Eisenhower as the Supreme Allied Commander during WWII and as Commander in Chief during the Cold War.

History has been kind to each of them. However, of the three, President Eisenhower was the only one to enjoy during his life an abundance of goodwill from the American people. President's Lincoln and Truman were reviled, embattled and even despised by many in their time. But their steadfastness in the face of bewildering critism, political slanderers, assassination attempts, uncertain outcomes and brutal enemies demonstrates a strength of character which proved crucial during the troubled times in which they served.

All of this was especially interesting to me in light of current events and I'm glad there are still men in our time who share the same attributes. May there always be.

The Place Where He Was Born

2006-08-08T09:12:00.000-04:00

When I raised the garage door, Wildfire was ready to go. Once we got on the road, the wind and sunshine felt great and it seemed that Wildfire rode better than ever, knowing he was heading back to the place where he was born.

Honda invites it's customers every July to their Marysville, Ohio plant. It's the only place in the world that manufactures Gold Wings. As you might imagine, people come from far and wide. In addition to the obvious social activities, there are safety demonstrations, demo rides, vendor booths and as always, a drawing for a new Gold Wing. But the highlight for me was actually taking the plant tour while the plant was running. They definitely have an impressive assembly process! Understandably, they wouldn't allow picture taking inside, but I took a few outside.

As always, gotta get a nature pic ...

The welcome parade .... Don't know what was more cool, seeing the bikes rollin' in or seeing the pride on the faces of the people who built them. The whole plant turned out at shift change time to welcome the riders . And the riders saluted the Honda folks for a job well done in building their dream rides. Naturally, a yellow bike led the way!

Yep ... that's an airbag!

This was part of the safety demonstration (no, he didn't run over me)

Demo Rides

Around the parking lot ...

Dyno Drag Racin'

Time to Head Home ....

Chasin' the Movies

2006-07-26T20:02:00.001-04:00

I'd never been to Colorado before, but something was vaguely familiar about it. Much of the scenery rolling past reminded me of the westerns I used to enjoy years ago. One town in particular had me thinking deja vu from the moment it appeared. Ready for something to eat, I stopped in Ridgeway, Colorado and found the True Grit Cafe. Once inside, it became clear this was no ordinary restaurant. On a brick wall to the left was a mural that had been painted for the John Wayne movie, True Grit. Originally an outside wall, it was visible in one of the early scenes of the movie. In later years, the restaurant was built around it as a tribute to John. It was a treat to have lunch there and see the memorabilia.

Once back out on the street, I visited the tourist office and found that there was a good reason the town looked so familiar. Many of the scenes from the movie were filmed there. The park which is directly across from the restaurant was where the "hangin" took place.

Around the corner was the building that appeared
as the Undertaker's place of business.

The prisoner wagon from the movie sits next to the main highway.

Since True Grit has always been one of my favorite westerns, I decided to go ahead and search out some of the other nearby scene locations as well. The chase was on! It led me down old washed out roads that no Gold Wing has ever had any business on. There were a few times I would've turned around if I could've, but Wildfire kept rollin' on. Eventually we found the field where Rooster put the reins between his teeth and with a gun in each hand charged ol' Ned Pepper and the other outlaws. Never dreamed I'd ever walk that field myself!

Then it was on to Mattie's Ranch on the other side of Ridgeway. The ranch appeared in the opening and closing scenes of the movie. Although still recognizeable, the years haven't been kind to it.

And then a few days later, while traveling through Monument Valley along the Utah-Arizona border, I once again found a place that looked familiar. Since returning home, I've found through a little internet research that this valley has been the setting for several movies over the years ... and a famous car commercial as well. But the movie that came to mind as I pulled over to the side of the road was Forrest Gump. He'd ran across the country for "three years, two months, fourteen days and sixteen hours" in an effort to put the past behind him. It was here that he finally said, "I'm pretty tired ... think I'll go home now".

Speaking of home, it was in Arizona that the wheels had rolled about as far west as time allowed so I nudged Wildfire toward home. As the desert grudgingly gave way to rising mountains, the 100 degree plus heat did as well. Eventually, miles turned to hours and the towering mountains in my rear view mirror began to lay down. The fresh alpine smell I'd grown so fond of was traded for the aroma of endless farm land ... all the way across Nebraska.

On the way home, there was one more place I wanted to stop though. Glad I did ... Madison County Iowa reminded me so much of Tennessee, I felt at home immediately.

This beautiful area has at least two claims to fame. After spending a couple of days in Colorado chasing down True Grit movie locations, it was interesting to take a guided tour of the house where John Wayne was born. The house is larger inside than it looks and has memorabilia on display. There's a giftshop next door.

But the main reason I wanted to visit Winterset was to see some of the covered bridges of Madison County. There are covered bridges all across the midwest and northeast, but none more famous than these. Robert Waller put them on the map with his bestseller The Bridges of Madison County. And Clint Eastwood gave them a starring role in his movie adaptation. Incidentally, if you haven't read the book or watched the movie, they're both highly recommended. If you've done any livin' at all, you'll no doubt find yourself in the dialogue somewhere. The story may well help you clarify what's really important to you, especially if you're approaching that crisis of life known as "middle age".

The movie locations are easy to find. Francesca's House is not too far west of I-35. It was open for tours until someone set it on fire a few years ago. Don't know how heavily it was damaged, but the best you can do now is photograph it from the road.

Cedar Bridge is just northeast of Winterset. And like Francesca's house, an arsonist unleashed fury on this historic bridge in 2002. The fire destroyed it and a replica was built and dedicated in 2004.

Then there's Roseman Bridge, which is the one Robert was looking for when he drove up Francesca's driveway. Didn't find any notes tacked to the bridge, but judging from the grafitti written on and carved into the wood, I would say that more than a few lovers have found inspiration there. I'm told that it's become a popular setting for weddings. It's a peacful place and I found it easy to linger as a bluebird hopped around on the bridge and a doe and fawn played in the water nearby. The deer are in the middle of the second picture below, although they're hard to see at this distance and resolution. Maybe it's time for a better zoom lens.

Southeast of Winterset is the Holliwell Bridge, which also appeared in the movie.

In the city park, you'll find the Cutler-Donahue bridge. It's not in it's original location. The bridges were originally named after the family that lived closest to them. In this case, both the Cutlers and the Donahues shared honors.

The stone bridge, where Robert and Francesca had their picnic, is also in the park.

The Northside Cafe ... on the square ... still open for coffee.

And the Blue Note Lounge, which was used for some interior film shots, is still jammin'.

A few miles outside of town is Pammel State Park, where Francesca's children sat on a table and grappled with the implications of their mother's diary.

Anyway .... it seems I have a new hobby. In future travels, I'll keep an eye out for other places that seem kinda familiar. And when found, I'll share .... :)

Wingin'

2006-07-11T11:48:00.000-04:00

Moon and Boots

2006-06-07T15:42:00.000-04:00

Moon was lying in bed not long ago when he threw up his arms and said, "Boots I'm coming to see you!" And he did. Boots had passed a few months earlier and, after almost sixty years together, life without her had been more than Moon could bear. Moon's real name was Chester. He met "Boots" in a restaurant she managed on the side of a mountain in Tennessee. Her name was Wilamena, but because of the boots she wore when horseback riding, he gave her a nick-name and it stuck. He had grown up in an orphans home and came of age during World War II. He served as an M.P. in Germany and was the kind of person Tom Brokaw had in mind when he wrote about "The Greatest Generation."

After the war, Moon and Boots adopted a Japanese baby whose mother, in great anquish, had decided to give up. She simply wasn't able to give him the care he needed. He had polio and it took several operations back in the states to get the young boys legs out of braces. Over the years, the young Donnie became Donald and grew up strong. Like most boys, his interest as a teenager turned to cars. He learned how to do auto body repair and that became his career. He's happily married now to a lady named Mary and they live in Indiana.

Soon, he and Mary will take the ashes of his parents back to the hills where they met. In spirit and in what's left of their bodies, they'll be together forever ... :)

It was always a treat when Uncle Chester and Aunt Wilamena came to town. They were so friendly and engaging. The mood was light and the laughter genuine. You could sit around the kitchen table and laugh 'til you cried. I can still see their smiles as if they're right in front of me. A few years ago, they came to Michigan and decided to do an impromptu renewal of their vows in my home after 50 years together. The "ceremony" was hilarous and great fun was had by all. My favorite picture of them was taken afterwards as they stood on the balcony over the dining area.

Life has been so much richer to have known them and I'll never forget their huge hearts, big smiles, and the wonderful lives they lived. The world hardly noted their passing, as they lived humble lives. The humble among us rarely recieve accolades, but the influence of well lived lives is impossible to fathom. They made a huge difference to those close to them ... and they'll always be stars to me. :)

Pop

2006-06-01T18:33:00.000-04:00

FISH - SMOKE - EAT - Sleep

A Screen Door And A Baloney Sandwich

2006-06-01T11:49:00.000-04:00

There was an old store on the way to the fishin' hole. Come to think of it, on the way to anywhere that mattered, cause Dad and I wouldn't dream of headin' out without stoppin' in. It was kinda homely lookin'. Not modern like the new mini-mart across the way. But when you heard the screen door creak open and slam shut, followed by the thump of boots on the wood floor, sure as shootin' you knew you were in the right place. Wasn't any air conditioning, but so what? The fan worked just fine. No fancy cash register either, cause the lady who worked up front knew arithmetic. But there was a big radio on the shelf that would grab your attention whenever Paul Harvey started talkin'. We always figured he'd tell us what was right with America. And if somethin' was wrong, his down home common sense would surely straighten it out.

I never cared too much for baloney sandwiches, except the ones Grover made while you watched. Never figured out why they tasted so good. After all, baloney's baloney ain't it? But back then I'd rather have ate a dozen of them than one fancy home cooked dinner. Besides, Mom wouldn't let me eat a Mr. Goodbar with lunch. Grover didn't care. And Mom was always fussin' about me drinkin' too much pop. All I knew was, Dr. Pepper never tasted so good as it did at the store. As soon as you pulled it out of the ice box and popped the top, I'll be John Brown if it didn't start makin' ice slivers!

You could just pay up and head out if you wanted, or maybe trade a few fishin' tales in the shade of the front porch while you ate. Mom would never find out, cause she didn't go fishin. :)

Well, I was back in town to see the folks last week. After most of 40 years, there is no sign that the store ever existed. Even the "modern" mini-mart is but an ancient relic now.

What started me to thinkin' about it was a serendipitous moment last September. I had just coughed up a wheelbarrow full of money for a new tourin' motorcycle. It was about a 600 mile ride home and I decided to let the big rigs have I-65 while I went in search of some twisties to ride. The further I rode from the hustle-bustle, the more the tension melted away. Drove through several wide spots in the road. Sometimes the speed limit would be reduced as the road widened and sometimes not. Just little communities of folks who had probably inherited land down through the years and would never entertain the thought of leavin'.

Eventually, I came upon a community that was big enough to have a store. The gas pumps out front were a welcome sight as well, so I stopped in to check it out. What I found took me to a place I didn't think existed anymore. I was 10 years old all over again. The sign said, "Gas - Bait - Soda" but it was so much more. The owner was as friendly as could be and happily showed me around. It was built in 1911 and has thrived through the years. The shelves are TALL! So tall that rolling steps are installed along the walls. The wood floor had that familiar thump and the old wood door sounded kinda familiar when it slammed shut. Of course, I got one of those fresh baloney sandwiches before I left. The store is in a Tennessee town called Burwood. If your ever in that neck of the woods, give 'em a holler!

I've been on several back roads since last Fall and have rode past more than a few old stores, almost all of them empty shells. In one area, I drove through three successive former communities. All that was left? Three dilapidated buildings. A whole generation passed on, and a new generation moved on to city life .

Anyway ... in case you didn't notice, I loved the old store in my hometown! From the bare light bulb hangin' down over my head to the cozy front porch. Life wasn't so rushed, so complicated, or so impersonal there.

But ... (seems there's always a "but" isn't there?) ...

Today's superstores are kinda nice too, in a different way.

The smorgasboard of selection, the opportunity to shop any time of the day (or night), the ability to go to just one place to take care of your banking, get prescriptions filled, buy groceries, clothing, home furnishings or most anything while having the oil changed or tires replaced on the car... all at the same time! And who wouldn't take a likin' to air conditioning, wide screen tv's, cable internet, digital cameras, laptop computers, and MP3 players. And how about that cell phone that magically brings voices of loved ones, weather maps and e-mail most anywhere you happen to roam. And the GPS that helps you find your way back home after you're through roamin'. And the .... well you get the point don't you?

I was wonderin' the other day if I'd be willing to trade the tangible wealth I have now for the reality of life back then? The kid in me says, "YOU BET!" But time soon sweeps childhood away, erases old stores, and seduces us with a nostalgic notion that life was better back then. Given the choice, I think I'd just choose to treasure the memories, but live in the present. Don't be surprised though if you come across a yellow motorcycle parked outside of an old store somewhere, and a fellow sittin' on the porch eatin' a baloney sandwich.

Wind Above My Wing

2006-05-18T12:43:00.000-04:00

Compared to riding in a car, almost everything is more vivid on a motorcycle. The pavement, only inches from your boots, becomes a blur. The wind rushing past tells you it's real. You burn with the sun, taste the rain and get personal with kamakazi bugs. The exhaust growling behind you provides a heady sensation of power. But that power is sometimes an illusion, as a motorcycle will always lose when broadsided by a spooked dear, or a car.

I've traveled across much of the country on a Gold Wing. I'll long remember many of the people, places, sights and sounds. And just as real in my memory are the fragrances that ride on the wind above my Wing. Pine trees, honeysuckle vines, freshly cut grass, plowed dirt, steaks sizzlin' and bread risin'. The best smelling town I recall was Winterset, Iowa. Never figured out why. Of course, not all the aromas are pleasant. There's the smell of oil burnin', brakes smokin' and antifreeze leakin'. Big cities have their own smell. So does the farmland in Kansas.

Strangely enough, in spite of all this sensory input, the road can put you to sleep on a bike just like it does in a car. I guess fatique has no respect for intensity. But once your nap is done and you're ready to go again, you know it's more than a ride. It's an experience.

Almost Heaven

2006-05-14T10:12:00.000-04:00

I'd heard of West Virginia, the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Shenandoah River for years. For anyone who wasn't from the area, John Denver made sure of that. Can't believe it took so long to finally get there.

The journey started in a charming little town that provides the gateway to Skyline Drive. I was there for only a moment and still under the fog of working midnights. Not really in vacation mode yet, or in a mood for taking pictures.

But there were some old houses standing next to each other that caught my eye. Not because they were the finest houses on the block, but because of the character they displayed in the face of neglect.

One even had what appeared to resemble a castle turret built into it. I wondered how such proud houses could be abandoned and left to decay and hoped that someone with more funds than I would come along and bring them back to life.

Heading on down the road, there were plenty of deer to keep ones attention. It amazes me how skillful they can be at recognizing danger when hunters are on the prowl, but are seemingly clueless when standing in the middle of the road. Some had the good sense to stand by the side of the road, but upon seeing my approach, decided to run across the road in front of me. Strange ...

Not too much later, a Mama bear did the same thing, followed by her Mini-Me. But the cub displayed better judgement than Mama as it turned around and headed back into the woods. I stopped on down the road and waited for awhile, wondering if Papa was around, but never saw hide nor hair of a bear again.

The only critter that I could've taken a picture of was a rather large turtle sitting by the side of the road. He would have been happy to pose as he was in no hurry to go anywhere, but there wasn't a good place to pull off.

The Blue Ridge Parkway presents you with an atmosphere of scenic overload. Around every curve is a picture waiting to be taken. However, if you wish to avoid becoming momentarily airbound, you'll probably want to focus mostly on the curves while driving and save your awe for some of the many overlooks along the way.

Of course, pictures can hardly capture the depth of what nature reveals to the senses, so hopefully you'll have the chance to experience it for yourself sometime. Just be aware that the speed limit on Skyline Drive is 35mph. On the Parkway it's 45mph and in some places less. Though I didn't have the unfortunate opportunity to chat with the park rangers, I've been told that they are quite serious about lightening your wallet if they catch you speeding. But why rush anyway? You won't see scenery like this very often, so it's best to allow plenty of time for a leisurely ride.

Here's a few places of interest along the way.

Mount Airy, N.C. is the hometown of Andy Griffith. It's also the town that the fictional Mayberry was based upon. The house where he grew up is available for an overnight stay for those who are interested.

I ate at the Snappy Lunch and admired the old police car standing guard outside. Next door, Floyd's Barber Shop will still lower your ears for a reasonable price. And Opie's Candy Store offers enough goodies to make your dentist proud.

For fans of bluegrass music, a good time to visit is the first weekend of June. That's when Mt. Airy hosts the annual Bluegrass and Old Time Fiddlers Convention.

If you're into riding horses, you can enjoy that pleasure on the Parkway.

Blowing Rock, N.C. is also a worthy stop. I found it pretty impressive that such a town could've been built around little more than a legend. And I was surprised when I saw the famous Rock, but rather than post a picture, I'll leave you with wonder. Also, if you're into Celtic food, dress and music, this is the place to be in May for their annual Blue Ridge Celtic Festival.

Farther down the Parkway you may want to visit Mt. Mitchell State Park. From the parking lot on the mountain, it's only a short hike to the observation tower. And that's about as high as it gets on the east side.

As I ventured along, the sun slowly made it's way across the sky. Eventually the glaring light of the noon hour gave way to rising shadows and the scenery took on a whole new dimension. Sometimes when the sun lays down, it burns with a defiant display of fire. Other times, it hides behind a heavy overcast while gray light slowly dims. On this evening, I guess it was in a mellow mood. The Parkway tends to have that effect. :)